Kiehl’s Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate


Kiehl’s Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate was inspired by Dermatologist anti-aging hydration procedures, such as Juvederm® Hydrate, and is formulated with a potent complex of Plant-based glycerin – a natural “moisture magnet” and Shiso Leaf Extract, which helps protects the “anchoring” of deep moisture into the skin’s surface layers.  This innovation, formulated after 29 trials, has been validated with excellent anti-aging hydration results sustained over a 72-hour period and skin penetration testing up to 10 layers[1] in the Stratum Corneum.

Formulation of this sophisticated serum is an industry advancement:

To achieve the significant hydration and penetration results, effectively addressing Age-Related Dehydration, Kiehl’s chemists first chose to formulate without waxes, eliminating any barriers, to ensure a more bioavailable preparation when applied on the skin.  Second, the formula was developed with an internal water phase that is larger than the external phase to impart an incredibly lightweight texture that “bursts” on application.  This internal water phase, which carries the key ingredients – Plant-based glycerin and Shiso Leaf – comprises 85 % of the emulsion.  Comparatively, typical skincare emulsions are more balanced between the internal and external phase.  Kiehl’s formula, with an 85% internal phase, was difficult to stabilize due to the high amount of internal phase.  This structure ensures the formula is able to swiftly hydrate the deepest surface layers of dehydrated skin with measured penetration up to 10 layers2  in the Stratum Corneum.

Plant-based glycerin within the formula works in three key ways:

  1. Glycerin is a “moisture magnet” and pulls essential moisture into skin

Plant-based glycerin is a time-tested, renowned skincare ingredient known for its highly efficacious hydrating benefits.

While some forms of glycerin are synthetic, the glycerin used in Kiehl’s Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate is plant-based, derived from sources such as palm fruit, rapeseed & coconut.  It is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water from the environment into the skin.

  1. Glycerin facilitates healthy epidermal barrier function

Plant-based glycerin is naturally occurring and highly compatible with skin.  Not only does it pull water into skin—it goes a step further, creating a ‘reservoir effect’ enhancing the water holding capacity of the skin, helping to promote skin elasticity and facilitating healthy epidermal barrier function.

  1. Glycerin and its channeling within the skin is critical for proper hydration

Aquaporin channels play an important role in facilitating the passage of water and glycerin.  In aging skin, levels of aquaporins are decreased, which can contribute to the increased incidents of dehydration with age.  Glycerin is one of the key molecules, along with water, that is transported through aquaporin 3 channel (the most abundant aquaporin channel in the epidermis).  Functioning aquaporins allow more water to flow in and out of cells.  Glycerin has been found to help facilitate the transportation process and diffusion of essential hydration throughout different levels of skin’s surface layers.


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