A storyteller at heart, Ulyana Sergeenko builds her collections around narratives that weave the personal with the fantastic, history with folklore, biography and invention. Creating a unique world of vast aesthetic depth.
For her SS15 collection, the designer delved into the rich heritage of the former Caucasian republics of Georgia and Armenia, with their cultural mix of West and East, pure beauty, serene landscapes and poetry. The journey is as eclectic as it is emotional for Sergeenko, whose husband hails from Caucasus.
Following a path of poetic associations, similar to the method of Georgian-Armenian Director Sergei Parajanov, whose masterpiece The color of pomegranate is full of visionary ruptures and endless visual surprises, the collection exudes a kaleidoscopic feel that strives on metaphors and allegories. Colors, texture and motifs differ deeply and vary continuously, yet are arranged into a multifaceted and singular whole. The womanly silhouette Sergeenko is known for acts as a trait d’union.
The poetry of Russian XIX century writer Mikhail Yuryevich Lermontov, who served in the army in Caucasus, creates a softly militaristic subtext on the sheepskin and broadtail coats embroidered with figures of horses. Swords, daggers and shields appear as oversized jewelry. Handmade embroidery on sinuous dresses reproduce the intricate patterns carved on the stone walls of ancient Orthodox Christian temples and monasteries, lost in the Caucasian mountains like precious pearls. Georgian calligraphy turns into embroidery. The tradition of Georgian comedy cinema, which Sergeenko is particularly fond of, is channeled via mannish suits and casually rumpled hats, created in collaboration with Stephen Jones.
With its commitment to old tradition and customs, the collection has a solemn feel inspired by the paintings of Georgian artist Niko Pirosmans, whose animal images turn into figures of sheep, hens, horses and peacocks on fabrics and accessories. National dance and music inspire the accessories, with the traditional Georgian drum becoming a bag made of lacquered leather, astrakhan fur and silk satin with embroidery in the form of a pomegranate tree and monograms with angels, edged in silk tassels.
Materials are dense and precious: crepe, jacquard silk, silk duchesse, organza, muslin, brocade, velvet, wool, lace, broadtail, sheepskin, patent leather. Pearls, ostrich feathers, onyx, rock crystal, turquoise and agate add further depth and richness. The painterly color palette mixes black and white with flames of fiery red, accents of turquoise, bottle green, navy blue and dashes of pink and gold.
With a poetic touch and exquisite taste for variety, Ulyana Sergeenko pays homage to an unforgettable cultural heritage using her womanly flair as a signature.
The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen is proud to announce the opening of its new boutique at Ocean Terminal, Hong Kong. The boutique is the first in Asia to adopt the so called BTQ EVO Concept, featuring a new interior design, new materials and display arrangements aimed at providing an even more refined experience of Swiss haute horlogerie to the watch connoisseurs.
One hundred guests, customers and friends of the House were invited yesterday evening to attend a Club Swann dinner by chef Thierry Marx. In the lofty main hall of the museum, the chosen few, all shod in their finest leather footwear, were invited to enter in the Salon 1900 room clad with panelling in the Art Nouveau style. There, Berluti’s master shoemakers invited the gentlemen to remove their shoes and sit at three long tables laid in the adjoining reception room.
After the champagne-based dessert, the maîtres d’hôtel served up the guests’ shoes under domed covers. The meticulously cleaned shoes were uncovered simultaneously so all that remained was for them to be polished. The shoe caring session could start, orchestrated by Mademoiselle Agnès, Master of Ceremony.
Out of the darkness, internationally renowned rapper and producer Snoop Dogg appears in the center stage boxing ring to perform his massive hit “What’s My Name”, followed by a live Mixed Martial Arts match featuring world champion “Demolition Man” while industrial percussionsist set the mood for the start of the Autumn/Winter 2015/2016 PHILIPP PLEIN menswear fashion show.
The collection mirrors the adrenaline-fueled aesthetic of the challenges that men face nowadays. The main colors are black and white, army green, bordeaux and grey. Proportions and cuts are revolutionized while volumes of exotic skins become collection staples as never before. This represents a turning point for the fashion House, towards an uncompromising modernity, a #pleinwarriors style.
The urban match, the battle and concept of the boxing ring are represented through details borrowed from the world of sports and aviation. A mix of powerful inspirations that translate into an aggressive and extremely refined menswear collection.
Baseball jerseys and the wardrobe of underground athletes from boxing gyms to improvised street arenas transform into symbols of strength and luxury; oversize T-shirts realized entirely in crocodile or python, running pants reconstructed in kid glove-like leather and over the top python jumpsuits.
The bomber jacket, one of the most relevant symbols of the pioneers of aviation, is revised into a high-volume version. Classic lining goes external while fur is double-faced and features a play of contrasting volumes and colors.
Knitwear shows a rough face; a combination of military style in blatant contrast with extra soft leathers is seen throughout the entire collection. 3D geometric elements and logo graphics featuring the image of a ferocious panther decorate jackets and T-shirts together with gothic characters.
Accessories plainly underline the strength of the collection. Helmets, kneepads, ergonomic paddings are offered in python and leather. Steam-punk sneakers feature led-lighted soles.
Snoop Dogg kept the adrenaline going into the night with a high energy DJ set during the iconic PHILIPP PLEIN after-party.