“Fashion is not a question of perfection, it should reflect life” explain Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver at the end of the LANVIN Homme Summer 2015 show. The new collection savours the urban, chic, luxurious and daring elegance of the masculine wardrobe. It is the response to urban men who like to wear their suits with trainers or mismatch a jacket and trousers. Men looking for their own attitude, beyond the diktats of fashion.
The first falsely classical passages introduce trouser suits of innovative construction. Excellent tailoring is evident, the heritage of Lanvin’s bespoke department. The cuts of the trousers impose new formats, flared or tapered, worn with destructured jackets, without lining or shoulder pads, the better to retain their airy volumes. Other hybrid jackets have the back or sleeves in cotton voile, transparent in some cases, whilst other pieces are decorated with embroidered finery and applications of hand-sewn thread, left with rough edges. Finally come short, laser cut jackets to accentuate the assumed imperfect perfection of this season.
Luxurious short boots underline the silhouette of these suits, admitting a first step into the collection’s world of leather accessories. Shirts and Biker or Harrington jackets come in fine smooth or suede leather, worn next to the skin and decorated, here and there, with overstitching laced by hand like fringes. Some pieces play a game of patchwork with insets on the shoulders and pockets to underline their architecture.
The wind of sportswear then arrives, true to the menswear collections at Lanvin, with a succession of trench coats, jackets, perfectos and belted coats, all borrowing lightweight and airy fabrics and comfortable volumes from the world of sportswear. Jerseys, sweatshirts, trainers and zip details work together to create loose and baggy looks.
A final, luxuriously casual series takes its inspiration from indoor clothing. Worn under straight suit jackets, fine purposefully crumpled summer pyjamas are worked in jacquards and graphic print silks, matching T-shirts with chiffon ribbon appliqué torn away to look like feathers.
The climax and common thread of the collections are the details: intimate, like the hand-overstitching on the fabrics, luxurious in the precious leathers used for the new messenger bags and shoes, urban with chain belts and chiselled jewellery worn next to the skin.