Valextra AW 2015 Women’s Collection

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Pure lines, simple forms, precise cuts. Valextra nods at its modern heritage with a collection that openly celebrates the brand’s structural inspirations.

Leather is molded like steel or concrete, shaped with engineered precision and sophistication. Each piece is the result of a spatial study inspired by timeless forms of contemporary masters whose visions are shaping the world’s aesthetics.

The brand’s innate design language creates a bridge between past and present. Accessories are conceived as design projects, with an engineered base, defining their shapes and enhancing their functionality.

The colour palette references architectural materials. Signature pergamena white, black and oyster form the core of the collection, whilst a brief hint of royal blue and red give depth to the range. Shapes are always at the focus, with costa black edgings drawing the sharp lines that outline the structures.

Each piece of the collection finds its explanation in a contemporary building.

Tadao Ando’s angular choreography of lights and shadows is rendered with the composition of the Twist 1 and Twist 2. Referencing the Japanese architect’s University of Monterrey, the two bags mimic his cast concrete illusions with a discreet folding of leather panels that speak the traditional language of Valextra through new forms.

The contours of the Casa are a representation of David Chipperfield’s Studio Gormley. The archetypal house shape is used in repetition in the architect’s work and equally synthesized in the bags’ structure. The apparent playful outline is pared down by the austere volume of the bag.

Zooming into the details of the Lotus House by Kengo Kuma, the Zip minaudière discreetly alludes at the building’s gridded cover that defines its structure. The essential box gives structural precision to a classic accessory.

Another bag takes cues from sculptural art. The Wrap’s sinuous shape is inspired by monumental steel works, with the leather resembling their majestic construction.

Whilst observing art and architecture, Valextra approaches design through a capsule collection in collaboration with Martino Gamper. The designer works on classic pieces from the brand’s range and uses them as blank canvas for his corner studies, with collaged sheets of leather forming three-dimensional illusions and twisted perspectives.

The collection is displayed in a minimal setting that gives each piece a monumental importance. Inspirations are oversized and abstracted to connect with the leather objects, in a connection of timeless shapes that combine architectural precision and emotional forms.

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