An ambivalent femininity dominates the Fall Winter 2015 collection for Leonard Paris. This season, the Leonard woman is youthful, candid and strong. Yiqing Yin explores prints – the foundation of the Parisian house – on another level, pushing further their possibilities. Transformed into matters and textures, they take a tridimensional quality. Inspired by the rich archives of the Leonard heritage, traditional hand-painted prints are destructured and recomposed to progressively rebuild the patterns in a surprising ease.
Enter the first looks of the collection. Through exploring unravelling floral tapestry motifs and innovative pigment impressions delicately placed upon fabrics, the collection arrives at purity and an uncommon simplicity. The feeling is simultaneously organic and architectural. Coats textured with an elephant skin effect and ensembles of immaculate white build toward an atmosphere that is more empowered, but preserves its whimsical spirit. Materials, both raw and noble, play against each other and become inextricably linked through the combinations of natural quilted wool embroidered with thick yarns against fluid silk chiffons. Pleated double print skirts delicately unveil a hidden pattern while in motion and sensual, modern long dresses are coupled with high neck shirts. The Leonard woman, with her belted elongated and oversize silhouette, asserts her confidence through cuts inspired by tailoring, pleated pants and fabrics borrowed from menswear. Transparencies meet raw edge shirts and skirts, with slightly utilitarian inspired details, while luxurious materials are transposed with a sportswear ease. A sense of nonchalance prevails.