The Prefall 2015 Collection sees the return of the Gucci woman’s bourgeois soul as a progression from the summer season. Designs with sleek, essential lines mix with Seventies-inspired, geometric prints for a new glamour. Styles alternate between masculine tailoring and knee-length dresses that take inspiration from the chemisier.
SILHOUETTE and MATERIALS
Boyish glamour. Menswear materials make for timeless tailoring, while silk is the starting point for new dresses destined to become year-round wardrobe staples. Suits and outerwear have a form-fitting shape in tweed, herringbone, and geometric jacquards. On coats and jackets, colorful trim and embroideries define pure lines. Blazers are sharp and smart with fabrics such as wool mélange. Pants provide options – the low-waisted, cuffed short trouser in silk-wool, the flannel oversized pant, corduroy or flannel flares, and tapered pants. Black denim has a lived-in look enriched with black-on-black embroideries. Elsewhere, embroideries subtly cover Nordic patterns on knitwear woven in mohair, merino, and alpaca. Meanwhile, the dress plays a leading role this season. Knee-length designs take inspiration from the chemisier. Defined waistlines, puffed sleeves, and fluid skirts alternate with more clean, jacquard mini-dresses. The leather dress turns heads thanks to new hardware: snap closures complete a robe-inspired design while studs and embroidery outline a crew-neck dress. Fur sets the tone for both day and evening, as seen on the woven goat jacket, shearling outerwear with Mongolian lamb on the neckline, and patchwork jackets in fox. Evening is multifaceted: from the printed gown to the tailleur, from mixed and matched separates to the cocktail dress; embroideries, furs with inlay workings and mini-vests express an opulent yet composed attitude.
COLORS and PRINTS
An eclectic, nuanced palette reveals warm shades of brick red, soft burgundy, apricot, dark orange, hints of pink, along with cooler tones including slate, dusty blue, and ivy green, as well as neutrals in the way of charcoal, black, and camel. Characteristic of the collection, Seventies-inspired prints range from geometric patterns to a design of overlapping foliage reminiscent of camouflage.
True to the season’s sleek sharpness, statement accessories have a strong, contemporary allure. The House’s interlocking signature acts as a closure for chain-style handbags – in shiny brushed calfskin, exotic skins or suede covered with studs. Striking lace-up shoes feature pointed toes and brogue workings on both stilettos and flats – in contrasting colors of python or leather. Alongside suede and python stiletto sandals.