Alber Elbaz presented his Lanvin Pre Fall 2015 collection at his Faubourg Saint-Honore studio where he transformed his space into a ‘grandma’s house’ Setting to give editors the comfort we’re lacking of in current days according to his view.
In the room decorated with well-worn velvet sofas, antique floral paintings, chunky ashtraps, a napping goldfish and a Persian cat, he intended to slow down the pace of the hectic fashion week to have a valuable time with his fellow men and women guests.
The clothes he showed had a similar intimacy. Sumptuous textures and generous proportions, loading of colorful crystal pendants or brooches and paired with men’s oxfords or knew-high boots, a short sheath in rose brocade under a gleaming metallic duffle finished with leopard-print loafers and bag, a long wrap skirt paired with tee shirt, all representing the notion of glam casual chic.
‘Mix’ is the key message, while the confidence to be comfortable, to be intimate is the quintessential elegance of Lanvin’s Pre Fall this year.
Serene, regal, with no trace of artifice, of anything that could check her allure, the Lanvin woman goes her way in complete freedom. Released.
Multi-facetted, simplicity is equalled only by the most sophisticated cut. Whether it’s an ink blue, Lanvin Blue asymmetric sheath or a disjointed over-stitched brocade dress, with its emblematic raw edges, style feeds on refinement. Techno stretch gabardine in chalk or black, the chequerboard look is here. An absolute chequerboard where crumpled woven linen suits walk freely alongside supple organdie trench coats and virginal terracotta washed silk satin dresses.
Stiletto heels or neo-antique sandals, a figure appears as fluid in silk satin or twill crepe as she is architectural in a mascara black linen duchess jacket.
A skin-like wardrobe in shades of grey, khaki, ecru and nude, like woven, draped makeup. Just so many enveloping, carnal mists highlighting, in a play on net, slits, eyelets and jewelled straps, the movement of a body as it walks. When dawn breaks or twilight falls a very specific softness appears, far from any kind of screeching, noisy vision, far from obligatory femininity, blinded by flashbulbs and false destinations. Strength is revealed in the intimacy of a cocktail dress like a short kaftan in organdie flocked with cut threads.
Paradise hides no longer beneath X-rays. It arises, in half-shades, both animal and vegetable, with this brocade coat “les singes floutés”, or this printed organdie dress “animaux en cavale”, come to recreate in the city nature at her most surreal and poetic. Because a gown is worn as naturally as a T-shirt, because the body of “thirty something and more” women – Kirsten Owen, Amber Valleta, Esther de Jong, Malgosia Bela, Anne Catherine Lacroix, Violetta Sanchez – is deployed at its zenith, in the absolute radiance of a time where nothing stands still.
A body which is at one with Lanvin time. Without prostheses or wiring. Just highlighted like a smile with a lick of sparkly red lipstick… ready to love. To live. To give. Made to reveal a personality, allowed to choose shadows as often as light.
“Fashion is not a question of perfection, it should reflect life” explain Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver at the end of the LANVIN Homme Summer 2015 show. The new collection savours the urban, chic, luxurious and daring elegance of the masculine wardrobe. It is the response to urban men who like to wear their suits with trainers or mismatch a jacket and trousers. Men looking for their own attitude, beyond the diktats of fashion.
The first falsely classical passages introduce trouser suits of innovative construction. Excellent tailoring is evident, the heritage of Lanvin’s bespoke department. The cuts of the trousers impose new formats, flared or tapered, worn with destructured jackets, without lining or shoulder pads, the better to retain their airy volumes. Other hybrid jackets have the back or sleeves in cotton voile, transparent in some cases, whilst other pieces are decorated with embroidered finery and applications of hand-sewn thread, left with rough edges. Finally come short, laser cut jackets to accentuate the assumed imperfect perfection of this season.
Luxurious short boots underline the silhouette of these suits, admitting a first step into the collection’s world of leather accessories. Shirts and Biker or Harrington jackets come in fine smooth or suede leather, worn next to the skin and decorated, here and there, with overstitching laced by hand like fringes. Some pieces play a game of patchwork with insets on the shoulders and pockets to underline their architecture.
The wind of sportswear then arrives, true to the menswear collections at Lanvin, with a succession of trench coats, jackets, perfectos and belted coats, all borrowing lightweight and airy fabrics and comfortable volumes from the world of sportswear. Jerseys, sweatshirts, trainers and zip details work together to create loose and baggy looks.
A final, luxuriously casual series takes its inspiration from indoor clothing. Worn under straight suit jackets, fine purposefully crumpled summer pyjamas are worked in jacquards and graphic print silks, matching T-shirts with chiffon ribbon appliqué torn away to look like feathers.
The climax and common thread of the collections are the details: intimate, like the hand-overstitching on the fabrics, luxurious in the precious leathers used for the new messenger bags and shoes, urban with chain belts and chiselled jewellery worn next to the skin.