Vivienne Westwood Gold Label AW 2015 Collection Fashion Show in London

 

Here I am in Paris at our fashion show which is “Unisex”. But right now in London there is a demonstration called “Time to Act” demanding action to stop climate change. At the same time as the march our models are on the catwalk. I cannot be there in person but I’ve sent a message.

There is massive rise in opposition to governments all over the world and after we vote in the UK May election there will be new MPs – Scottish Nationalists and the new Green MPs who will join this opposition. The main parties won’t change anything but the Public Debate will. The debate is all over the Internet but that’s not good enough. We must vote and demonstrate.

So I hope what happens this year will be literally life-changing. We had a great time doing the collection. “Unisex”! – as usual with a collection we went through hell. But we came out the other side. Trousers for women, yes! Dresses for men, the same dresses that women wear? Do that! It takes a lot of trial and error. Dresses without a woman’s waist! But then you, the woman, look like a king or queen (from history or a parallel universe)- you the man look like a king or a queen!

I love the change in proportion: the big shoulders give a small head- it’s so sexual because it’s new, it makes you look at the person from outside, it’s all so sexual because we’re looking at people with new eyes.

What about the fabrics? Start with the hula skirt- we put them on belts; they’re bisexual. The pagan wools i.e. bio- friendly matted sheep’s wool. A shepherd? A Sumerian? (we know almost nothing about them except for their sheepskin skirts). What are we talking about? Time: human beings have forgotten  more than we know. But we sort of know what’s human. Let’s go for it: Study the past. There’s a hint of it in the future.

UNISEX clothing, as an idea is something Vivienne and Andreas have been promoting for a number of seasons now, predominantly through the knitwear. This season we decided to build on this further after research we made into a tailoring / made to measure service initially for our male clients.

Vivienne and Andreas really want to promote this idea of clothing for both sexes for a number of reasons. Firstly, they think it is a very modern way of looking of clothing, why should certain garments be only for one sex? Secondly, it has an historical context, from ancient times this classification of clothing- men’s / women’s didn’t really exist (until everything changed at end of the 1700s, during the French Revolution essentially, in Europe at least). The other thing to consider is that right from the beginning of Vivienne’s design career, a large amount of what was created was designed with the idea of them being worn by either sex, so this concept has always been a part of the Westwood DNA.

Rupert Sanderson for Antonio Berardi FW 2015 Collection Fashion Show in London

 

For Fall/Winter 2015 the Rupert Sanderson for Antonio Berardi footwear collaboration presents a vision of sculptural sensuality, reflective of the clothes themselves. Taking reference from Frank Gehry – light, distorted, magnified and undulated, brought movement and transparency to the vision, a vision that retains the trademark Sanderson Berardi feminism and dynamism.

The contrast between heavy beading and rich embellishment with darker noir fabrics bring the collection out of the realms of the fantastical into the everyday. A palette of pitch black, midnight blue and emerald is interspersed with splashes of neon pink, lilac and shocks of sunflower yellow. Flashes of crimson and cerise emerge from the floral prints. All of these elements are reflected on the design of the footwear.

The Berardi woman is at once revealed and yet concealed, sensuous yet chaste, in a contradictory but highly compelling state of femininity.

Sanderson says, “This collaboration best exemplifies the synergy between the strong silhouettes and distinctive markings that make great shoes, with the total look of the catwalk collection. Incorporating fabrics used in the pieces perfectly into the shoes and boots gives a total presentation and expression of the look."

Vilebrequin London Burlington Arcade Flagship Store Reopens

 

Vilebrequin has reopened it’s famous Burlington Arcade boutique located in the heart of London’s Mayfair, after a major refurbishement. The company’s London flagship is an ambassador for 1970’s St-Tropez and provides a welcoming and laid-back atmosphere for those heading to the beach or going for a leisurely dip by the pool.

The boutique is home to the full mens, womens, childrens and accessories collections which are displayed accross two floors, showcasing Vilbrequin’s position as the number one luxury swim and resortwear brand in the world.

Inside the store the stunning view of the sea and the new beach cabins act as the perfect invitation to pleasure and relaxation throughout the year. The white and azure blue colour scheme is inspired by Mediterranean buidlings which dominate and enhance the light and space through the large windows. Subtle sand stones have been added to this chic and summery palette which gives the finishing touch to a place where everything speaks of travel and faraway beaches. The history of the company, founded in 1971 in St-Tropez, is recounted to shoppers by photographs and illustrations hanging from the walls.

Simone Rocha AW 2015 Fashion Show in London

 

This season is inspired by the work of Louise Bourgeois.

Tapestry and Tulle, tweed and lace.

L’araignee et les Tapisseries.

Chenille upholstery, and hosiery, alone and together, her work Mamelles, 1991.

Padded nude mesh, on breast.

Nude shoe, nude you.

“When I was young”

Prada “The Iconoclasts" 2015 in London

 

During London Fashion Week, Prada presented the third chapter of The Iconoclasts project. Arianne Phillips’ takeover of the London Old Bond Street store drew an elite mix of London’s fashion and avant-garde scene.

Inspired by telling stories and creating characters, Arianne Phillips envisioned a ‘cinematic dreamscape’ of the store and created a special film based on the Spring / Summer 2015 collection. Desert landscapes were used as dramatic backdrops throughout the store against purple carpet. The store windows were filled with purple sand, rocks and trees. The natural elements like moss and orchids continued inside with the re-creation and ‘mash up’ of textiles used in the show for special mannequins, some with bright red wigs.

The mix of unexpected elements  and re-imagination of key bags and luggage in rich brocades, allowed guests to explore the craftsmanship of the collection through Arianne’s innovative vision.

Topshop SS 2015 Fashion Show in London

 

Riffing on the subcultures of the British Isles is at the heart of Topshop Unique. For SS15, it’s the faded glamour of the British seaside, from pier to Pleasure Beach. At its core is a switched-on, youthful spirit – a dance-all-night, sea-sprayed celebration of British youth culture that lives for the weekend.

With bold cycling jerseys, floral frilly knickers and made-for-dancing pleats, the collection is inspired in equal parts by sportswear (all eyes on the velodrome) and the dance hall. Girl’s girl meets tom-boy: for every pretty dress there’s a hint of lad’s-casual, which is the enduring cool of Unique.

Rupert Sanderson for Antonio Berardi SS 2015 RTW Show in London

Rupert Sanderson and Antonio Berardi are proud to present their London Fashion Week collaboration for Spring/Summer 2015. This is Sanderson and Berardi’s third runway partnership.

For Spring/Summer 2015 Antonio Berardi presents a vision of opulence within turbulence. This is fully reflected in the footwear collection consisting of graphic, super-high strappy sandal silhouettes.

Berardi’s trademark femininity is married with a fresh concern for a loosened delicacy. The contrast between softness and architectural cut reveals this new strength. Floral patterns are fragmented through the collection and across the shoes; small and concise on the one hand and explosively large on the other. Texture is similarly approached, exploring the contrast between finely detailed jacquards and hand embroidery with more robust waffle fabrics. A palette of midnight, navy, khaki and stone cold blues and greys mixes with flesh pink, vermillion and chemical orange; are all eflected on the design of the footwear.